Professional Hair Styling Tips Part I

Professional Hair Styling Tips 

How To Style Hair?

Calming Bang Cowlicks

One of the most effective techniques for dealing with cowlicks at the bang area is to try drying the bangs forward with a vent or round brush so that the cowlick will be weighted down. Another technique is to have a hairstyle that incorporates the cowlick into the style thereby creating lift at the cowlick. Use styling tools to support either styling technique.

Curling Iron Styling

If you want a longer hold when you style with a curling iron try spraying hairspray BEFORE curling hair.

Styling With Hot Rollers

When using hot rollers spray dry hair first with a "working" hairspray. Take your first section and comb it smooth, spray with hairspray and then twist the section before wrapping on the roller. This will give a spiral look to your curls. After rollers have cooled take out rollers and spray with a "working" hairspray. Finally turn head upside down and run your fingers through your hair.

Hair Splits At Crown Area

This problem can be treated by utilizing the correct styling tools and drying the problem area in the opposite direction to redirect the hair and give it more lift. Don't dry the hair flat to your head as it magnifies the split in the crown area. Instead use a vent brush to lift the hair at the scalp. If the hair is sticking up in the crown area and you have a short cut, try growing the hair longer. You should find that the weight of the hair will weigh down the crown cowlick.

Using a Blowdryer and Brush To Turn One Length Hair Under

After drying hair 70% dry use a round brush or rounded vent brush begin drying hair under. Use a working spray and spray on the ends of your hair while the brush is in a turned under postion in your hair. Aim the blow dryer at the hair that is in the brush for 15 seconds then let the hair cool for 5-10 seconds and then remove brush. You may have to turn the dryer off and put it on the counter until you get used to applying the technique. The key factor is spraying the hair, then using a blowdryer set to "hot" to act like a curling iron then allowing the hair to cool before removing the brush. Repeat until all the hair is dryed under. If you have a lot of hair try pinning the top layer up and working first on the underneath layer.

Bedhead Style

"I just woke up" is the sexy message in these styles. How to achieve that sexy look, tease your hair along the shaft (not at the root). You can apply this technique to either your entire head or a random section for a more laid back look. The tools: Apply a root lifting lotion to hair before you style it

Perm Styling Tips

Shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for permed hair: Aggressive shampoos or scrubbing can cause early relaxation.

Condition the hair with conditioners specially made for permed hair: Permed hair has varying porosity - ordinary conditioners may over or under condition hair.

Do not wrap in a towel turban when you get out of the shower with wet hair: The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don't brush hair when wet: Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the ends toward the scalp.

A diffuser should be used to dry permed hair: For more curly styles, continue to use the diffuser throughout the styling. For more relaxed styles, remove the diffuser and blow dry at finish.

When using styling appliances: use thermal protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Mist with a perm rejuvenator: this adds essential moisture, shine and manageability while helping to define the curl.

Make an appointment for a trim: It's important to get your hair trimmed or shaped every 5-6 weeks to remove the ends. Regular trimming will also extend the life of your perm and make it easier for you to style.

Perm your outgrowth: Just because you still have perm in your hair doesn't mean you can't have another perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for previously permed hair can give you even, manageable, silky soft curls

All About Hair Color

It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - blue will make it a brown / black color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out

One of the most important elements of hair coloring is determining the hairs '"underlying pigmet" (the hairs' natural color.) When you choose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.

Underlying Color + Artificial Color = Final Result

Levels of Hair Color

    1 = Black
    2 = Very Dark Brown
    3 = Dark Brown
    4 = Brown
    5 = Medium Brown
    6 = Light Brown
    7 = Dark Blonde
    8 = Light Blonde
    9 = Very Light Blonde
    10 = Light Platium BlondeTypes of Haircolor

    Temporary - color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

    Semi-Temporary - color lasts up to 4-6 shampoos. Usually contain no ammonia and does not have a developer.

    Demi-Permanent - color usually contains little or no ammonia and utilizes a low peroxide developer (under 10 vol.) The color lasts about 6 weeks and fades gradually back to the natural shade.

    Semi-Permanent - color usually contains some ammonia and uses a deloper of 10 to 20 vol.

    Permanent - color formulas change the natural hair color. They require maintenance to new hair growth after 4 to 6 weeks. (For the purposes of this guide we will be discussing Permanent colors and methods of processing only.)How it WorksBefore any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction.The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.

    10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening
    20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening
    30 Volume - Strong lightening action with less color deposit
    Bleaching Boosters - Can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions. Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.Color and Highlight Care Tips and TechniquesColor treated hair has special needs and good care is essential for any hair type. Follow these 12 professional suggestions to keep your hair looking fantastic!1 . Wet your hair with bottled spring waterbefore getting in a chlorine pool. It will dilute the harsh chemicals.2 . Be careful in the sun.Use hats, scarves or products with sunscreens to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.3 . Leave-in conditioners generally contain sunscreensTo protect against color fade. Great for the beach!4 . Wash hair gently with a shampoo for color-treated hair.Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to color treated hair.5 . Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.6 . Do not wrap in a towel turban when you get out of the shower with wet hair.The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.7 . Don't brush hair when wet.Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the ends toward the scalp.8 . Don't overdry.When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost, but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.9 . Use care when styling.When using styling appliances, use thermal protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.10 . Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair.These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.11 . Don't spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.12 . Always your best source, your stylistCan answer any other questions you might have and recommend professional products ideal for color-treated hair

Hair Accessories

Define Your Style with the Perfect Hair Accessory

hair accessories

Hair accessories are the newly rediscovered, must-have fashion pieces for the best dressed celebrities, trend gurus and anyone wanting to truly define their style. The hair accessories you choose make a statement about your own individual style and create that pulled together look that we all want. Whether it's a France Luxe Sassy Ponytail Holder, a Swarovski crystal barrette, or an animal print silk headband, you'll find them featured on the pages of your favorite fashion magazines now more than ever. From Glamour to Lucky to Bride, and even Teen Vogue, these fashion leaders love showing you the versatility of hair accessories, and spotting them on celebrities and runways from Paris to LA

Kick up casual outfits a notch with a great headband in silk, patent leather or Swarovski crystals. Headbands are huge time-savers when it comes to creating a great style with virtually no effort. Pucci-print scarf headbands are as popular today as they were in the 60's and the look has inspired endless spin-offs in color combos from one end of the rainbow to the other. Accessorize with the right headband and you can turn a ho-hum outfit into something straight off the catwalk. Metalics are hot for the fall and holiday seasons, or try a jeweled headband when you head out to your next holiday soiree for just the right amount of sparkle.

Now, let's talk about the essential hair accessory - ponytail holders. Don't write off ponytail holders as accessories that are just for the gym or a bad hair day - they have come a long way since the days of the colorful plastic balls on a black band that we all wore as children. These easy to wear hair accessories are here to stay. From metals to mod plastic designs to elegant crystal loops, ponytails have never looked better. We especially love the fresh designs from France-Luxe ... whether it's the Curved-S pony in vibrant nacro colors, or the glossy metal petals of the Orchid pony, or the Mod pony in geometric and animal-print designs ... they are irresistible! Hair Glove biker hair accessories are for the motorcyle enthusiats. Hair Ringz hair jewelry is another stylish, easy to use ponytail holder that features a replaceable elastic band.

Handcrafted hair accessories such as Mei Fa hair styx and Michelle Roy hair flower clips are hot, hot, HOT! Their versatility and unique designs make it easy to dress them up or down. Brides use them to accessorize their own hair, as well as their brides maids' tresses. They are beautiful to wear and come in creative packages that also make these specialty hair accessories thoughtful gifts.

The bottom line is that hair accessories are once again making a major impact on the fashion scene. The selection has never been better and because they are relatively inexpensive, it is easy to update your hair accessory collection with each new season. Online stores are typically the best way to find many of the handcrafted, specialty accessories at the most competitive prices. See some best selling hair accessories here: salonweb.com / hair_accessories

Shampooing 101

First, thoroughly saturate scalp and hair using warm or cool water (hot water tends to dry out hair and scalp). Apply a small amount of shampoo (about the size of a quarter) to palm and rub hands together to evenly distribute. Now apply shampoo to scalp with the balls of your fingers. The primary objective of shampooing is to clean your scalp, not wrestle your hair, so concentrate on massaging gently and allow suds to be distributed throughout hair while rinsing. It's not necessary to do the "rinse and repeat" routine unless you have an oily scalp

The right way to condition shampoo tips

After rinsing shampoo, apply some conditioner in one hand and rub palms together to evenly distribute. Apply conditioner from the middle of the hair shaft down to ends; do not massage conditioner onto scalp unless scalp is dry. Comb through hair to distribute product evenly. Leave conditioner on hair long to help smooth the cuticle-it only takes a few seconds. Rinse thoroughly - It's important to rinse shampoo and conditioner from your scalp. Stand under the shower and gently lift hair to permit the water to reach the scalp. Hair will be thoroughly rinsed when it feels consistently clean as you run your fingers from scalp to ends. Some people believe a cold water rinse

is best.

To wash or not to wash?

Shampooing frequency for normal hair depends on whether hair is curly or straight. Shampoo and condition straight hair every day for a sleek, radiant look. Curly hair, however, becomes too fluffy if it's washed too often, so it's okay to shampoo and condition every other day.

Should you occasionally switch shampoos?

Most Salon shampoos do not build up on hair; they continue to work effectively as long as you use them, so there's no need to switch products (another myth debunked). However, shampooing occasionally without using any conditioner or styling products to give hair a rest. Choosing the right products for your hair - Fine or thin hair can sometimes be more delicate and could benefit from a protein enriched shampoo and conditioner formula with a light level of conditioner. Curly hair may look dry, and therefore can benefit from a regimen which includes moisturizing ingredients.

Chemistry of Shampoos

People expect a lot from shampoos. Unfortunately, it is not easy to tell a good shampoo from a poor one. Cost, fragrance, and lots of foam is what most people look for in shampoo products. Lather and foam is of little importance, but they often get the most attention.

Foaming occurs when surfactant molecules gather around air instead of oil. The result is millions of tiny bubbles. Obviously, the air bubbles are using the surfactants that should be removing dirt and oil. We have all seen shampoo advertisements showing happy, beautiful people taking showers with their heads heaped high with mounds of lather. These images have taught the public to associate lather with cleansing ability.

The truth is, lots of foamy lather only means too much shampoo was used. Excess foam equals waste. Sebum and other oils quickly destroy foam. Ideally, the head should have just enough lather to lubricate the scalp and hair. This will help your fingers massage the shampoo more effectively into the hair.

Fragrances and foaming qualities are not good ways to evaluate shampoos. Examine the hair's condition after several uses. Is it flyaway, is it hard to comb, does it seem limp, do colors fade, is the hair dry or the scalp itchy?

Carefully choose the shampoo to use and recommend. The quality of your services and the success of your repeat business may depend on the decision of product choice

The major types of surfactants are:

    Anionic (an-eye-ON-ick)

    Cationic (kat-eye-ON-ick)

    Nonionic (non-eye-ON-ick)

    Amphoteric (am-fo-TERR-ick)

Identification and names are important in all professions but for chemists, they are especially useful. Chemists try to choose names that provide information about the chemical. For example, anionic and cationic surfactants both end with "ionic" for a reason. These surfactants are a special type of chemical called an ion (EYE-on). Salt bonds are important type of chemical bonds in the hair. Salt bonds give hair many important properties and affect most chemical treatments. Although the term salt bond is used frequently in cosmetology, it is incorrect. These chemical bonds are actually called ionic bonds, and they occur between ions. Ions and ionic bonds are really quite simple to understand. Ions are molecules that have small electrical charges. These charges are positive or negative. They repel or attract each other.

Opposite charges attract and similar charges repel. Table salt, sodium chloride, is an excellent example. Sodium forms positive ions and chlorine makes negative ions. The opposite charges attract each other and make table salt. These charges are identical to those found in batteries or static electricity, but on a much smaller scale. Individual ionic bonds are very weak, but millions of them in combination are quite strong. Surfactants with a negative charge are called anionic (an-eye-ON-ick). A surfactant with a positive charge is cationic.

Anionic Surfactants (Negatively charged ion)

Anionic surfactants are the most widely used detergents in the cosmetology profession. They are inexpensive, simple to prepare, and excellent cleaners. They also rinse easily from the hair. A major disadvantage is that they can be harsh and irritating to the scalp Frequently, other surfactants and ingredients are added to reduce skin irritation.

Cationic Surfactants (Positively charged ion)

Cationic surfactants are rarely used in high concentrations in the cosmetology profession. Many types are dangerous to the eyes but are safe and useful in low amounts. Until recently, their positive charges prevented them from being mixed with negatively charged anionic surfactants. Newer types, however, eliminate this incompatibility.

Look at the label!!! Here is a guide to how gentle your shampoo is according to the surfactant used:

    Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - very, very, harsh

    Ammonium Laureth Sulfate - very harsh but better than the above

    Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - better than the above, but still a little harsh

    Sodium Laureth Sulfate - gentle, great pick!

    TEA lauryl Sulfate - good pick

    TEA Laureth Sulfate-good pick