Professional Hair Styling Tips, Part II

Professional Hair Styling Tips, Part II

What is a Hair Conditioner? 

Professional Tips About Hair Conditioners hair conditioner

The term hair conditioner is vague. Hair conditioners fall into different groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair need a specific kind of conditioner, people with thick, dry hair need another ...

Conditioners fall into six major categories:

    Moisturizers

    Reconstructors

    Acidifiers

    Detanglers

    Thermal Protectors

    Glossers

    Oils (EFA's-essential fatty acids)

Moisturizers:

Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain botanicals or protein (they often do).

Recommendations:

NuGen Emu Oil Conditioner

Reconstructors:

Normally contain protein. Hydrolyzed human hair keratin protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables the it to penetrate the hair shaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strengthen the hair.

Recommendations:

GROW! Fast Hair Growth Conditioner

Acidifiers

The key word here is "acid". Yes, is is good to put acid on your hair. When a product carries a pH of 3.0 to 3.5 it is normally termed an acidifier. This pH will close (compact) the cuticle layer of the hair. The result is hair with a natural mirror like surface which will naturally reflect light. Acids carry a positive electrical charge and will give a boost to the hair's elasticity too making it, have body and bounce. This pH range will adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds (hydrogen bonds). Acidifiers do not weigh the hair. They do create shine, and add elasticity. This category (acidifiers) is great for anyone but especially for people with fine thin hair since acidifiers don't weight the hair down.

pH's below 3.0 can be damaging. Lemon juice for example has a pH approx. of 2.5. Every uses lemon juice on your hair? Please don't because that pH range will remove hair color. You may think, what is the big deal? It is only a half a pH off. The pH scale is nonlinear and there is a BIG difference. The pH scale is logarithmic and runs from 0.0 to 14.0 with 7.0 being neutral. Readings less than 7.0 indicate acidic solutions, while higher readings indicate alkaline or base solutions. Some extreme substances can score lower than 0 or greater than 14, but most fall within the scale. A logarithmic scale means that there is a ten-fold difference between each successive full number on the scale. An acidic solution reading 2.5 represents a ten-fold increase in acidic molecules over a 3.5 solution.

Recommendations:

Natural Hair Conditioner

Detanglers

Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's 2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some "shield" the hair shaft with polymers (polymers are strings of "like" molecules-a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.

Recommendations:

Sunset Hair Elements Hair Detangler Leave-In

Thermal Protectors

Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat. Using thermal protectors are one of the best things you can do to your hair if you blow dry, use curling irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat absorbing polymers that distribute the heat, so your hair does not get heat damage (a major cause of hair damage)

Recommendations:

Sunset Hair Elements Thermal Spray

Glossers

For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain dimethicone or cyclomethicone (very light oils derived from silicone). Used in small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the best products to control the "frizzies."

Recommendations:

Moroccan Argan Oil

Oils (EFA's)

If you have dry hair (esp. if you have chemicals on your hair color-perm-relaxer} you need to add oil to your hair. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFA's are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contain EFA'S). EFA's can take very dry and porous hair and transform it into soft pliable hair.

Recommendations:

Macadamia Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque

Dry Hair Tips

Dry hair is caused by heat, an open cuticle, chemicals applied to the hair, and poor maintenance. Repair dry hair by following these tips

Dry Hair Solutions: dry hair tips

1) Less or no heat. When blow drying, use a cooler setting and do not blow dry until the is completely dry.

2) Use acidifiers. Acidifiers close the cuticle down and lock in moisture. Acidifiers have a pH of 2.5 to 3.5. They have a lower pH than hair does in an aqueous solution.

3) Color, perms, relaxers, and other chemicals are sometimes a necessary evil. They rob the hair of humectants. Humectants attract and retain moisture (water) in the cortical layer of the hair. Try to use low ammonia-low peroxide color. Do not leave neutralizer on too long with perms. If possible avoid relaxers.

4) Treat your hair. Replace lost humectants with essential fatty acids (lipids), acidify your hair, use low pH products, use cool water. Replace what was taken out to make your hair dry. Also eat a diet full of essential fatty acids (in moderation and non-animal {no cholesterol}).

Dry Hair Recommendations:

1) Get a good low pH shampoo. High pH shampoos lift the cuticle allowing moisture to evaporate. Here are a few great shampoos for dry hair:

Sunset Hair Elements Moisturizing Shampoo

2) Replace lipids. Your scalp produces sebum. This is the hairs' natural source of lipids or essential fatty acids (EFA's.) If your hair grows past your neck line, the hair makes no or little contact with the body. If you use heat (irons, rollers, blow drying), your hair will get depleted of EFA's.

Macadamia Oil Hair Treatment

3) Acidify. Acidifiers lock the lipids and moisture in the cortex. They are probably the single most important step to good hair. They maintain good hair

Hair Styling Tools

One of the most common complaints of customers of styling salons is, "I can not achieve the same look at home my stylist did at the salon."

This page is written for you so you will be able to create the same finished look!

When you get your hair done, ask your designer what it took to style your hair that way. Here is a list of tools you may want to purchase to achieve the look you want. hair styling tops

Mechanical Tools

     1) A good brush.

     2) A blow dryer with a "cool" setting.

     3) A wide toothed comb (for detangling while hair is still wet).

     4) A boar brush if you have straight hair.

     5) Curling iron

     6) Hot Rollers (steam roller are nice)

Liquid Tools

     1) A "working" hair spray.

     2) A "finishing" hair spray.

     3) A thermal protector (if you blow dry or use styling irons)

     4) A gel, foam (mousse), spray gel, liquid gel.

     5) A glosser

Guide to Match Face Shapes And HairStyles

One of the first things you should do when considering a new haircut is to learn the shape of your face. Here is a quick guide of the most common face shapes and some tips on which hairstyles work for each one.
It is important to keep in mind that there is no "perfect" face shape. Work with your hair stylist to choose a style that works best for your face shape and you will love it!

SQUARE

Square face shapes are characterized by angular and an equally wide forehead and jawline. These types of face shapes should avoid hairstyles that follow the same pattern of the face: no blunt chin length bobs, no straight bangs. A square face can be enhanced by wearing short styles like a pixie cut or shoulder length wavy hair.square face shape

RECTANGLE

A rectangle face shape is similar to the square face shape in that the sharp forehead and jawline are equally proportioned in width, but the face is just a bit longer. Those with rectangle face shapes should avoid long straight hairstyles that do not add any volume to the sides. Medium length styles with curls or waves and short graduated bobs with wispy bangs work well with this shape of face.rectangle face shape

OBLONG

Similar to the rectangle and square face shapes is the oblong face shape. The oblong face shape is also sometimes referred to as the long face shape. Avoid long straight styles as these can make the face appear even longer. These types of faces are best suited for short to medium length hairstyles with waves and texture that adds volume to the sides.oblong face shape

OVAL

For many years the oval face shape was incorrectly nicknamed the "perfect" face shape. Now hairstylists understand that different face shapes can pull off a variety of haircuts and there is no one "perfect" face. Oval face shapes do have the benefit of having more overall symmetry in the bone structure, with an equally curved forehead and jawline. For this reason, oval faces can wear many more styles than other more angular face shapes. Oval shaped faces do not need to really avoid any particular style. Short, medium, long, straight, or curly all tend to work with this shape of face.oval face shape

TRIANGLE

Triangle face shapes (sometimes referred to as Pear face shapes) have wider jawlines and narrow foreheads. These types of face shapes should avoid styles that add to the fullness of the jawline, such as chin length bob hairstyles. Shorter styles should be ear length or higher and add volume to the crown. Longer styles look best with short to medium layers that add fullness to the top of the hair. Curly or wavy hair suits triangle face shapes very well.triangle face shape

INVERTED TRIANGLE

An inverted triangle face shape is basically the opposite of the triangle face shape: it is characterized by a smaller forehead and wider jawline. An inverted triangle face shape is best suited for styles that accentuate the jawline. These face shapes should avoid cuts that make the forehead appear wider, such as blunt straight bangs or heavily layered short styles. A hairstyle like an inverted bob that hits right at jaw level is ideal for this shape of face.

HEART

Heart face shapes are very similar to inverted triangle face shapes, however heart shaped faces tend to have a more rounded forehead with a hairline that comes to a point. Those with heart face shapes should avoid hairstyles with volume at the crown or straight cut bangs. The best styles for this type of face shape are medium to long styles that hit at the jawline and longer. Layers and sideswept bangs are also good for this shape of face.heart face shape

DIAMOND

Diamond face shapes are not as common as other face shapes. These types of faces tend to have higher or more pronounced cheek bones with smaller jawlines and foreheads. This face shape should avoid hair that is cut at ear / cheek level. Ideal hairstyles for diamond face types will add fullness to the forehead and jawline areas. Blunt bangs cut straight across the forehead can achieve this fullness while still accenting the cheekbones. Short styles should be cut above the ears / cheek level, and medium to long styles can be cut with choppy layers.diamond face shape

ROUND

Round face shapes are slightly wider in the middle than they are at the top and bottom of the face. Round faces also tend to have less defined cheekbones and wider foreheads and jawlines. This face shape should avoid hairstyles that are too blunt or straight across, as well as hair that is ear length. To enhance a round face, choose a hairstyle that is either very short (cut above the ears) or shoulder length with volume at the crown. Slightly long sideswept bangs look best with this face shape

How To Repair Damaged Hair

Preventing Damage

Damage to the hair is usually caused by heat (irons, blow drying, curlers, heat lamps, etc.), UV rays (Sun, lights, tanning beds), mechanical devices (combs, brushes, curling irons, etc.), Chemicals (color, perms, relaxers, pool chemicals, the air, etc), or poor diet (specifically-lack of proteins and essential fatty acids). repair damaged hair

Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent damage to your hair:

    1) Use a thermal spray protector when using heat.

    2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little moisture in.

    3) Use a conditioner with UV protectors built in.

    4) Use a low or no ammonia hair color.

    5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.

    6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb. See more information in our section about hair styling tools

    7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends and work up.

    8) Clarify your hair after you swim.

    9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.

    10) Eat foods high in protein and essential fatty acids

Quick Fixes

These are only temporary fixes. They do not provide real solutions to damaged hair. They provide a way to get the hair look good fast. Again, I hesitate to even write this column because I do not want to give you the impression these ideas should be used on a regular basis. True "fixes" are above and below this column.

    1) Mist a shine spray glosser into dry hair. Many companies claim glossers "repair the hair", they don't. They do coat the hair with a layer of silicone oil (dimethicone, cyclomethicone).

    2) Use a flexible styling gel. Apply to damp hair and blow dry or air dry.

    3) Take 1-3 drops of coconut or argan oil in your hand. Rub your hands together and smooth onto dry hair.

Real Solutions for Damaged Hair

The following is written on the understanding you have already damaged your hair and need help to repair the damage. Here are some real solutions that may take a little time. Please note also that damaged hair IS NOT necessarily dry hair. Dry hair is a completely different topic. The tips below will only protect and repair damage hair.

    1) Go to a salon and get all of your split ends trimmed off. You can't start repairing your hair until you get rid of the damaged ends.

    2) Reduce colorings and chemical processing.

    3) Start taking a good hair vitamins supplement

    4) Make a hair mask using avocados and olive oil and apply to hair a few times a month.